News From the Heart and Seoul of Asia

Halloween=fun times at SLP

2008-10-30T06:04:00.000-07:00

scroll to the bottom for more video footage

So as you may guess, they do not celebrate Halloween here in Korea. However, since the kids are in English classes everday and there are 8 Western teachers at my school, the school decided to go all out in celebrating Halloween. I will be taking pictures tomorrow of the actual school and its hilarious signs (one that declares "halloween happy" instead of happy halloween). The kids, as a result are going absolutely berzerk and are so excited to have their foreign teachers dress up (me in a jail suit....fitting, since they called me a hood lum.) They of course have gone overload on the candy, numb on the brain, and fairly unwilling to actually do their work in class. For the past week they have all mumbled and grumbled about tests, homework, and expressed shock that I would be upset that they didn't in fact do any of their work.

Now, I know that I am well known back in the states and at the Y in particular for being quite the cool counselor with kids. Probably because my father himself has never quite grown up and I was raised in a family and extended family that saw teasing as the most affectionate form of showing someone you care. So I'm a sarcastic teaser by nature, born and bred. Anyway, despite this fact, I still find it difficult to do my job when the kids are ranting away in Korean during class because their tongues have become lazy for the more difficult English language. The other day some kids were giggling and looking at me while laughing and speaking in Korean, and I got the sneaking suspicion that they were in fact laughing at me, their English teacher!!! ;)
We are supposed to be hard on them for speaking Korean in English class, but I rarely am (only when they go overboard with it). If I were in their shoes, at their age, I'd be calling my English teacher every name in the book because I'd know they wouldn't understand a word of it. But I convince myself that these kids are too polite and too nice to ever do something like that.....or maybe I'm just being naive....

Anyway, I'm going to try and upload one of the cutest videos I've taken of these 3 kindergarteners that always attack me when I go to eat lunch (I only work with older kids, so I am fresh Western meat for them to prey on. They are incredibly adorable. Watch carefully for the boy with the mullet, he's my favorite.) Don't they remind you of little American kids trying to outdo one another for attention? I love it.

Love from my end of the world,

Lindsey

My new camera and other thoughts on Korea

2008-10-17T02:25:00.000-07:00

(Here are a few new pictures from my new camera. Hopefully I'll have the videos up and running in the next day or so.)

I finally got a new digital camera, so I have begun taking video and will be updating my blog more often with video and pictures. I'm working on uploading a cute video I took today of one of my favorite classes. They are 2nd graders, and they have been taking English classes since they were 4. So their English is very good. However, just like the American kids I worked with, they can be quite rowdy and silly at times. In fact, if you listen closely, there is a funny part in the video where you can hear the two kids to the right of me get into a little verbal fight. The girl, Judy, says to a perpetual instigator (Ryan), "You are so stupid!!" After I called them out and said, "we don't call people names" I realized that they didn't understand what this phrase meant, "call names." So after the video I had to have an extensive conversation about how there are mean words and nice words, and we don't say any words that aren't nice! It was quite funny. In fact, you can see the looks of confusion on their faces after I say, "don't call each other names!"
Anyway, as you will see, kids are kids, the world over!! (I'm having trouble uploading the video....so bear with me.)

Things have been going well here in Korea. The weather is beginning to finally get cold, and I am quite enjoying exporing the city on the weekends. I have been visiting many museums, and thus far have visited 4. Two weekends ago I went to the Seoul Museum of Art and saw a really informative exhibit on ancient Korean Buddhist pottery, writings, and paintings. I have also been to the Korean War Memorial, which I recommend to anyone who is living here or is thinking about visiting.

I think I have adjusted very well and easily to life here. Although, I often forget that I am a foreigner in a non-English speaking land; until I am reminded by an elongated, uncomfortable stare on the subway or by a taxi driver who has no idea where I need to go and why I am in such a hurry.
I am also beginning to learn the extensive privileges that English speaking people have, it's something we don't think about being in America. But it bothers me that as a white, American, English speaker, I am treated practically like royalty. I have been given countless items for free by the most random of people. Just last week in the grocery store I walked past the woman at the stand where I buy my (whole wheat) bread, and she held out a large bag filled with pasteries. I eyed them and faked excitement, while saying, "yes, very nice pasteries" (I figured she was just showing me them for some odd reason), then she thrusted them at me with a big smile and forced me to take them. I thanked her profusely, and noticed my newly arrived coworker looking at me quizzically as we left. I explained that it wasn't the first time I was given something for free. I know it's because I'm foreign. I know it's because I speak English, and I know its because I'm white. And frankly, it makes me quite uncomfortable, and I feel that it is incredibly unfair. I know for a fact that black Americans here or other foreigners are not treated nearly as well, in fact, many black people are treated with overt, open disgust and racism (this is not always the case, and doesn't happen everywhere). That unequal treatment is disconcerting to me and I often wonder if there is anything I can do about it.

I can't really say no to the free things I get, and I definitely can't go on a rant about the inequity of treatment between black/white, American and non-American foreigners (they would not understand). But it disturbs me, and is the one thing I dislike about this place. I have tried to understand why Koreans act this way towards people of color. They have been quite an isolated nation for a long time, and even today, Asia continues to have the lowest populations of foreigners in the world. Their culture has not been exposed to foreigners to the degree that Americans and Europeans have. They haven't had a large enough non-Asian population to significantly sway public opinion on matters such as race. But I think this is changing, slowly but surely. The neighborhood I live in, for example, has the second highest foreign population in Seoul. I find that I get far fewer stares here and although people are nice to me, they don't go out of their way to shower me with free stuff (as they do in other parts of Seoul). I think this is why sometimes in my neighborhood I feel like I can fit in better than in other places, people like me are more accepted to some extent, and businesses speak English, even if just a little bit.

I like forgetting that I'm a foreigner, and it makes me feel good to walk the streets of Seoul and know that I live here, and pay taxes just like everyone else. I truly feel now that anyone could move anywhere and slip right into life. It's a matter of "going with the flow" so to speak. I'm not a horribly picky eater (although I do miss American breakfast food....I am not a fan of kimchi for breakfast), I don't mind the language barrier (frustrating as it can be at times), and I like experiencing new things. I don't worry about getting lost here because I enjoy the adventure that comes with finding my way.

Anyway, those are just some thoughts from me, from my little corner of Earth.
I'll write more later!

Enjoy the video!
Much love from Korea,
Lindsey

p.s. I will also be uploading a video tour of my local grocery store which will include many crazy and strange food from here. I hope all of you kids like it, and please, I would love to see pictures of my former YMCA kids! I will show any videos or pictures sent from you guys to my kids here, they would love it!

Korean kids and sour candy

2008-08-13T06:47:00.000-07:00

Had the kids try warheads and cry babies today. I didn't tell them that it was sour and they thought it was hilarious after the sourness wore off! Included are pictures of them after trying the sour heads. These kids are funny, and often remind me of the YMCA kids....goofy, lovable, and incredibly sweet. I guess kids are kids, the world over.

Enjoy the video and pictures,

Love,

Lindsey

On the Randomness of Seoul

2008-08-12T08:15:00.000-07:00

Wow. The 20th of August will mark a whole month of living in Korea. Let’s see. I guess there is quite a bit to say for my part. I haven’t written anything since before I left and my life is…well, very different. It’s weird, when people ask me what my life is like here, it really doesn’t feel all that different. In terms of practicality I mean. In terms of everyday living. I’m convinced that anyone anywhere could move to the other side of the world, just like I did, and acclimate quite quickly. I challenge anyone who doubts this. Seriously, it all happens so quickly and before you know it, you’re at a grocery store halfway around the world pondering what to buy for dinner….just like back home. Granted, roaming the grocery aisles here and finding dinner is like being a whale asked to find food in a desert. Nothing makes sense. I was so confused that I ate yogurt for the entire first week here.

It was the only thing I recognized and felt comfortable eating. Of course I slowly branched out, although I’m still exploring the grocery store every time I go (which is about every other day). The fish section is a world unto itself. Dead fish with eyes the size of my head are on glamorous display for people to eat. The other day I accidentally ate squid in a bowl of soup at a local gimbap place (rice bowls with a variety of things in them). I politely swallowed it, but I think the expanded size of my eyeballs gave away the internal unpleasant experience. I see squid everywhere, on street vendor carts, as a dead raw appetizer….and I have a street wise sense that it should be avoided at all costs, mostly for its unforgivingly awful smell. My apartment sits halfway up a hill on a little side street across from my school. The bottom of the street reeks of squid and garbage everyday. Seoul is a horrendously humid place in the summer and the heat mixed with humidity and street vendors selling fish makes for a rancid combination on my way home from work each night. Thank god I’m at the upper part of the hill.

I’m convinced that Seoul is the city of randomness. It’s very hard to describe this place for people who haven’t been here, but perhaps these random stories will give you a small hint of what life is like here in Asia. For example: have you ever seen an action movie in which there is a sequence where someone on a motorcycle—and sometimes a car—swerves onto the sidewalk and starts peeling down the sidewalk causing mass chaos?? Well, that is considered normal behavior in Seoul. Mopeds use the sidewalk the way one might use a sidewalk in Asheville to go for a nice stroll downtown. Just two days ago I was walking home and I looked down at my Ipod to change to a new song. When I looked up a scooter was careening at me from just 5 feet away. I literally had to jump out of the way to avoid getting creamed in the middle of the walkway. The man didn’t even look back after his near fatal killing of a clueless American. I nearly had a heart attack and I’m not sure that I will ever look south for the rest of my life when I walk.

The strange part about what seems to me to be quite a hazardous everyday occurrence is that Korean pedestrians don’t care one bit that they have to dodge mopeds and cars every day of their lives. I’ve learned to keep my ear out for the sound of one.
But the cars still get me. Today I was nearly backed into by a large, black SUV that just decided to pull onto the sidewalk and drive for nearly half a block before getting back on the road (he did this so he didn’t have to wait at a red light….and its not illegal).

Coming home from the grocery store my co-worker Rob and I almost got killed by a Korean man in a mini van who literally seemed to be gunning his car directly at us. It turned out he was aiming for his WIFE who was walking right next to us. He peeled up by her, yelled ferociously for her to get in the car. And then for some reason, she stoically complied. Apparently domestic violence is quite common, but man am I glad I didn’t witness a woman get mowed over. Even further, I was glad that I didn’t witness ME getting mowed over in the middle of a ridiculous domestic dispute. I read in the lonely planet that 39% of all deaths in Seoul are pedestrian related…..39%!!!! Do you know how large of a percentage that is??? And my brother thinks it would be great for me to get a moped here….thanks, but I don’t have a death wish.

On Thursday I was having a lesson with a class of twelve 10 year olds about caring for animals. I had them recite to me different examples of how to care for a pet. We went over things like: brushing a dog, giving it a bath, and feeding it. I then noticed sweet little Paige to my left with her hand innocently raised. She contributes often and I enjoy her comments. So I said, “Paige, tell me one way that you can take care of your dog.” She replied innocently, “You can eat it!!!” And with that the whole class burst into laughter. She was joking, but then the other kids chimed in, “oh yeah, dog is good, it taste very good!” I motioned with my hands for them to calm down and I said (while biting my tongue from laughing), “Paige, no, that’s not a way to care for a pet. To care means to help, and if you are eating your dog you are not helping it.”
As much as I was repulsed by the direction the conversation had gone, I was morbidly curious to know more. I had been told that eating dog is against the law here in Korea now. That information had been inaccurate. So I asked the class, “Do you guys eat dog at home?” And several of them nodded. Apparently, it’s not only a food item for the poor, these kids are from very affluent families, and they approach it as some nice delicacy.
Don’t worry; I’m not going to be trying dog anytime soon. Or ever for that matter. And I made Paige erase her illustrated picture of her family eating her puppy for dinner…..

These little anecdotes are just a small picture of what my life is like on an hourly basis. I could fill a book with humorous stories, and I’ve only been here for a month. Perhaps to make my life even more fun and exciting, I started dating a striking Irish woman. Really, when I think about my life, I have these moments where I wonder if there are cameras somewhere. Am I living some independent comedy about a Brazilian-looking lesbian living in Seoul, Korea, dating a pale, blonde, Irish woman also living abroad. The funny part about this part of my life is that although Korea is adamantly against homosexuality, Koreans are quite affectionate with each other while walking. Two female friends routinely hold hands, and even two male friends. So despite both Selina and I being closeted at work (well, my foreign teachers know, but not my Korean boss or co-workers), we can walk the streets holding hands and no one is none the wiser. I find this incredibly ironic and funny. Koreans are oblivious to human sexuality, even the butch-est of dykes would pass in this country.

This Friday I have gotten together a group of co-workers to come and see the X-Files opening with me. It has been out in America since July 25th (and I do not want any Americans spoiling it for me), so it has been torturous for a reformed X-Files feign to wait for so long. I hear that they serve peanut butter squid at the theater. This is the only squid that I will be trying, and I will report back to everyone on how that turns out. If you don’t hear from me for a while, I probably got sick and ended up in a Korean hospital getting some sort of anti-biotic stuck in my ass.
Selina and I are heading to the islands just West of Seoul on Saturday to do some camping with her friends on the beach. Apparently they go there every year and camp on the beach and have a bonfire then go to some local bar and get smashed drinking Soju and singing Karaoke…..

More stories to come….

With love from Seoul!
Lindsey

A short video from Korea

2008-08-05T07:09:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone,

I have finally moved into my apartment just last week. Today I finished my 2nd day of teaching classes and I love it already! The kids are cute, eager to learn, and incredibly bright! They all seem to like me, but one class of three 16 year old girls took one look at my nose ring and thought I was a bit scary! (can you believe it?) She looked up the Korean word for Hoodlum and pointed it out to my co-worker, telling him that's how they perceieved me. I found it hilarious! I knew that Koreans don't like piercings or tattoos, but this was the first time I have probably ever been called a "hoodlum" in my life!!! Ha.

I love it here! Seoul is such a great city, it's fast paced, has everything to offer, and the food is beyond wonderful. I have already become friends with the other foreign teachers here (4 Canadians, and 3 Americans). They have been incredibly friendly and helpful. My apartment is great as well, I love living alone for once! The only thing missing is my gray cat Malcom. But he doesn't speak Korean well so he'd probably just be confused anyway if he were here.

It is midnight here on Tuesday, and I am a bit tired. I will write a longer and more detailed blog in the next few days. I am having 3 friends of mine come stay with me this weekend, so I will probably have plenty of good pictures to share with everyone!

I hope you enjoy the video,

Lindsey

Preparations

2008-06-01T12:49:00.000-07:00

Here I am, still in Asheville, writing my first blog in preparation for my trip overseas in just over a month. This is my last week of working at the YMCA, after that my life will turn into one giant waiting game while I wait for my background check, visa issuance, and passport stamp. It reminds me of the Dr. Suess book, "Oh the Places You'll Go."

http://kcrg.mediacache.clickability.com/images/places1.jpg

"You can get so confused that you'll start in to race down long wiggled roads at a break-necking pace and grind on for miles across weirdish wild space, headed, I fear, toward a most useless place.
The Waiting Place...
...for people just waiting. Waiting for a train to go or a bus to come, or a plane to go or the mail to come, or the rain to go or the phone to ring, or the snow to snow or waiting around for a Yes or a No or waiting for their hair to grow. Everyone is just waiting."

I despise waiting. It's too inactive, too anxiety ridden (what if my background check doesn't come in on time? What if I don't get my visa stamped on time?), too much control in the hands of a governmental institution, and the mail process.
But no, as the Seuss states,
"Somehow you'll escape all that waiting and staying.You'll find the bright places where Boom Bands are playing."

Ah, yes, Boom Bands. Speaking of Boom Bands,
My mp3 player broke today. One way I've been preparing for my trip is by getting all of my electronics in order, making sure they are working and have a suitable case/cover to keep them from damaging on the flight over.

I bought a nice new Cannon camera yesterday for the trip. And I thought I was all done with my electronics. Until I plugged in my MP3 and my computer refused to recognize it. I panicked, tried to reset it, and dug myself deeper into an technological nightmare. I started to panic even further with visions of my 14+ hour plane ride being even more miserable without the luxury of my favorite music to calm me down. I hate long international flights and I began to convince myself that not having my Ipod would ruin my entire flight.

Then my friend reminded me that having my Mp3 player break is a small problem pre- move given what could be my problem. So I remembered that it could be worse. I should worry about panicking if my visa doesn't go through, or something like that.

God, I hate our technologically driven culture when something as meaningless as a music player breaks and we convince ourselves that we really truly need these material things to make it through. It's a good wake up call to remind myself that I can live without it.

So I'll get over it, I've never been very materialistic...but man, I do love my Tracey Chapman and Coldplay when some kids are kicking my seat on the plane and the guy next to me won't shut up while I'm trying to relax.